British big wave surfer Andrew Cotton has said he “100 percent recovered" after breaking his back in Nazare, Portugal, a year ago.

In an exclusive interview, Cotton reveals he is hungrier than ever and says he will never be cautious surfing despite sustaining his serious injury 12 months ago riding a 60ft wave.

Cotton - who describes himself as "really hungry” - was speaking after finding himself back in the water almost exactly a year after his injury and back surfing another monster swell at the notorious Nazare.

The big wave season has started in the town and some of the best surfers around the globe have been chasing the infamous waves in Praia do Norte over the past few weeks. The beach is listed on the Guinness Book of Records for being home to the biggest waves ever surfed.

In video seen here, shot by local filmmaker Pedro Miranda, Cotton manages to ride the approximately 60-foot wave until a bump strikes his board, making him fall off.

But he knew his first wipeout since breaking his back was a crucial step in his road to recovery.

Speaking in Nazaré on Tuesday (November 13), he told Newsflare: “(This was) the first proper big swell (since my injury). My biggest worry in the back of my mind wasn’t actually surfing - I’ve been surfing all my life, I’m happy to surf a wave. It was taking impact. It was bittersweet: I was excited to be surfing but also I was worried to know if I could handle a wipeout at Nazare. It’s not like anywhere else.

"Now I’ve got the first proper wipeout, impact after a big injury is the one - it’s nice to get that out the way. It felt good. Now I’m just focusing on making some bombs. I’ve got a couple of waves I want to make. I’m looking forward to surfing."

In his latest wipeout, Cotton said he was tossed about “like a rag doll.”

"I cartwheeled for a bit and then it was like a proper bang. I did a quick body check."

Cotton insists his back injury has not dented his confidence in the water.

"I don’t believe you can be cautious surfing big waves. For me It’s about putting everything on the line, it’s exciting, it’s pushing the limits. I’m back on it 100 percent. I don’t think my confidence has been knocked at all. Especially after getting back right in there, it’s good to hit it hard. Nazare is like the best place in the world to get your confidence up - or take it away.”

Cotton won the World Surf League's Biggest Wipeout Award last season and is now a favourite for this year’s edition. Although that wouldn’t please the good-natured Cotton.

"I’ve always dreamed of getting a WSL award," he said. "I was kind of gutted to get that. I certainly don’t want a second one!

Interview with Andrew Cotton in Nazaré, Portugal, on November 13.

TRANSCRIPT:

Cotton on his first wipeout since breaking his back:

This was the first proper big swell (since my injury. My biggest worry in the back of my mind wasn’t actually surfing - I’ve been surfing all my life, I’m happy to surf a wave. It was taking impact. It was bittersweet. I was excited to be surfing but also I was worried to know if I could handle a wipeout at Nazare. It’s not like anywhere else.

Now I’ve got the first proper wipeout, impact after a big injury is the one - it’s nice to get that out the way. It felt good. Now I’m just focusing on making some bombs. I’ve got a couple of waves I want to make. I’m looking forward to surfing.

I just hit a couple of chops and I was going so fast, I was so committed, I was like 'I’m going now.’ I hit one chop, landed fine. And on the second chop, the board came out and disconnected and that was it. I was like a rag doll. That was when I was like, this is the moment. It was kind of wanted but didn’t want. I cartwheeled for a bit and then it was like a proper bang. I did a quick body check and I was all right.

On his return to big wave surfing:

I don’t believe you can be cautious surfing big waves. For me It’s about putting everything on the line, it’s exciting, it’s pushing the limits. I’m back on it 100 percent. I don’t think my confidence has been knocked at all. Especially after getting back right in there, it’s good to hit it hard. Nazare is like the best place in the world to get your confidence up - or take it away.

On his current fitness:

I’m 100 percent recovered. I’ve had a chance to reset, refocus, build a really amazing baseline of fitness. I’m excited. When you haven’t surfed for so long you come back hungrier. And I’m really hungry at the moment.

On his World Surf League award:

I’ve always dreamed of getting a WSL award. I was kind of gutted to get that. I certainly don’t want a second one!